The Mediterranean island of Corsica has two famous sons, one better known than the other. The lesser known is Pascal Paoli (pronounced "pow-lee"), the father of Corsican independence. Corsica was ruled throughout history by the French, the Genoese, and other Italians. In the second half of the 18th Century Paoli led the Corsican movement for independence from the Genoese. Paoli, from the town of Morasaglia, about 30 minutes by car from Lutina (site of my farm), was as much a political philosopher as a fighter. After obtaining independence from the Genoese, the Corsicans adopted Paoli's constitution, the most democratic constitution at that time. In fact, today Corsicans insist that Paoli wrote US Constitution. This is an overstatement, although America's founding fathers did look to the Corsican constitution for inspiration in drafting the US Constitution. Paoli's influence in the US is evident in towns named Paoli (pronounced "pay-oh-lee"), including the Paoli in suburban Philly near where I grew up and in Oklahoma not far from my grandmother's. Unfortunately, the Corsican Constitution did not last very long, as France took over Corsica ten years after it obtained independence from the Genoese. Genoa never acknowledged Corsica's independence, and in a political move transferred it to France. French troops moved in and Corsica has remained part of France for nearly 250 years.
The political moves that resulted in French rule in Corsica paved the way for Corsica's second and more famous favorite son. Napoleon was born in Corsica's largest town, Ajaccio. Throughout Corsica there are streets, plazas, and buildings named for both Napoleon and Paoli. For Corsicans, Paoli is the better regarded of the two. There are tourist sites devoted to Napoleon, but the island's relationship with the Emperor is conflicted. I was trying to figure out when Napoleon's birthday was and what festivals Ajaccio had for the anniversary and I was told that that day was a great day. I asked for whom that was a great day, and the Frenchman told me that it was a great day . . . for Napoleon.
miércoles, 21 de enero de 2009
jueves, 15 de enero de 2009
Two babies
In leaving Asia I stopped in Singapore for a few days to visit some friends. I met Debbie Lee about 18 years ago at nerd camp - we spent one high school summer taking classes at a college campus. Debbie is Singaporean, but was living in DC at the time because her dad, a government employee, was stationed in the States. Since then we have remained friends, even attending University together for a year at University of Michigan. After Debbie's year in Ann Arbor she moved to London to attend medical school. In her studies she met a British bloke, Jon Gifford, who has since become her husband. After living and working in the UK for a few years after finishing medical school, she and Jon moved to Singapore in the last year. The move to Singapore coincided with the birth of the couples' first son James Gifford. James has large, dark, intense saucer eyes and soft brown hair. He lives with his parents and grandparents, auntie Pat and uncle Lionel in a three-bedroom flat in S'pore. This is the same flat I visited when I first traveled to Singapore in Christmas 1996 (breaking my mother's heart to miss Christmas with her for the first time ever). James is an adorable child and is fortunate to live with two doting parents and two doting grandparents.
Another friend couple of mine has a life course that has intersected with the Giffords. I went to law school with Matt Easter. During law school, Matt was dating Alice, whom he met in college. Matt and Alice married the week after we graduated from law school. After practicing in New York for a short time, Matt entered the foreign service and was sent to China. Matt and Alice returned to DC to work at the State Department, but have now been sent to Singapore, Alice now working for the embassy as well. Matt and Alice are both very interested in China and these assignments have been great matches for them. Alice arrived in Singapore pregnant, and slightly before Matt.
I put the Easters in touch with Debbie, whose pregnancy was slightly prior to Alice's. They are both Christian couples in their late 20s/early 30s, professionals, and have young babies. Sara Easter was born in Singapore a few months after James Gifford. Sara is a sweet little girl. The three Easters came over to the Lee-Giffords and we all enjoyed tea together thanks to the generous hospitality of auntie Pat and the household. Auntie Pat and uncle Lionel get very excited with the babies in the house and are very welcoming. My short visit to Singapore was a great time to visit friends familiar and new.
Another friend couple of mine has a life course that has intersected with the Giffords. I went to law school with Matt Easter. During law school, Matt was dating Alice, whom he met in college. Matt and Alice married the week after we graduated from law school. After practicing in New York for a short time, Matt entered the foreign service and was sent to China. Matt and Alice returned to DC to work at the State Department, but have now been sent to Singapore, Alice now working for the embassy as well. Matt and Alice are both very interested in China and these assignments have been great matches for them. Alice arrived in Singapore pregnant, and slightly before Matt.
I put the Easters in touch with Debbie, whose pregnancy was slightly prior to Alice's. They are both Christian couples in their late 20s/early 30s, professionals, and have young babies. Sara Easter was born in Singapore a few months after James Gifford. Sara is a sweet little girl. The three Easters came over to the Lee-Giffords and we all enjoyed tea together thanks to the generous hospitality of auntie Pat and the household. Auntie Pat and uncle Lionel get very excited with the babies in the house and are very welcoming. My short visit to Singapore was a great time to visit friends familiar and new.
miércoles, 14 de enero de 2009
Luang Prabang
When I left Cambodia, I was thinking I should have scheduled my itinerary to give me more time in Cambodia and to skip Laos. I was really enjoying myself and there were more things Iwanted to see. After one day in Luang Prabang, I was sold on Laos. After spending 10 days there, I was still not ready to leave.
Luang Prabang was an old emperial capital and is still home to the largest number of Buddhist monks and monasteries in the world. Because of this rich heritage it is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is set on a peninsula along the Mekong River and mountain ranges ring the city. According to friends, five years ago Luang Prabang was untouristed. Today, there are plenty of Internet cafes, travel agencies, and English-speaking restaurants. However, the town still retains its charm and lovely, laidback pace. The Buddhist monasteries and the rivers give the town its character.
One friend, a Korean diplomat, recounts a saying from the region: The nicest Vietnamese is still meaner than the meanest Laotian. This is not to say that the Vietnamese are mean, but to distinguish the incredible hospitality of the Laotians. Little agitates the Laotians I met - smiles and patience are typical. Even in negotiating in the market, their character is quite distinguishable from their neighbors. In Vietnam, the vendors approach you and call out to you. The starting negotiating price is often at least twice the fair market value. Negotiations can be heated and confrontational. If you say no, the vendors will chase after you and give you a discount. In Laos, you have to approach the vendors. The starting price is about 30% above fair market value and if you walk away, the vendors wish you a good night, but don't try to press the sale.
The location provides stunning sunsets and sunrises. Before sunrise, the monks gather at their monasteries. Each monastery then processes into town and joins a long procession of all of the monasteries. Each monk carries a food bowl and people kneel on the side of the street and put bananas and sticky rice in the bowls. Locals sell rice and bananas to the tourists and because of the large number of tourists the bowls overflow, so that the monks end up emptying out the entire contents of their bowls as they process.
Because of Luang Prabang's location, many of the activities revolve around the river and the mountains. My two favorite activities were riding the elephant and kayaking on the Mekong. The elephants have retired after 40-50 years of carrying cargo and now give rides to tourists. They are large, but still smaller than African elephants. I rode on the head, grabbing the ears, feeling the bristly skin, feeling every movement as it plodded through the jungle and the river.
In kayaking down the river I saw the daily life of the Laotians. Fishermen threw their nets. Families harvested rice in the paddies. It was so peaceful and lovely - each turn brought a new vista. There was no schedule, no billable minutes, no breakdown of the subway, no mobile phone. Only mountains, the river, the boat, and me. I enjoyed my last experience in Laos, but I didn't want my time there to end.
Luang Prabang was an old emperial capital and is still home to the largest number of Buddhist monks and monasteries in the world. Because of this rich heritage it is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is set on a peninsula along the Mekong River and mountain ranges ring the city. According to friends, five years ago Luang Prabang was untouristed. Today, there are plenty of Internet cafes, travel agencies, and English-speaking restaurants. However, the town still retains its charm and lovely, laidback pace. The Buddhist monasteries and the rivers give the town its character.
One friend, a Korean diplomat, recounts a saying from the region: The nicest Vietnamese is still meaner than the meanest Laotian. This is not to say that the Vietnamese are mean, but to distinguish the incredible hospitality of the Laotians. Little agitates the Laotians I met - smiles and patience are typical. Even in negotiating in the market, their character is quite distinguishable from their neighbors. In Vietnam, the vendors approach you and call out to you. The starting negotiating price is often at least twice the fair market value. Negotiations can be heated and confrontational. If you say no, the vendors will chase after you and give you a discount. In Laos, you have to approach the vendors. The starting price is about 30% above fair market value and if you walk away, the vendors wish you a good night, but don't try to press the sale.
The location provides stunning sunsets and sunrises. Before sunrise, the monks gather at their monasteries. Each monastery then processes into town and joins a long procession of all of the monasteries. Each monk carries a food bowl and people kneel on the side of the street and put bananas and sticky rice in the bowls. Locals sell rice and bananas to the tourists and because of the large number of tourists the bowls overflow, so that the monks end up emptying out the entire contents of their bowls as they process.
Because of Luang Prabang's location, many of the activities revolve around the river and the mountains. My two favorite activities were riding the elephant and kayaking on the Mekong. The elephants have retired after 40-50 years of carrying cargo and now give rides to tourists. They are large, but still smaller than African elephants. I rode on the head, grabbing the ears, feeling the bristly skin, feeling every movement as it plodded through the jungle and the river.
In kayaking down the river I saw the daily life of the Laotians. Fishermen threw their nets. Families harvested rice in the paddies. It was so peaceful and lovely - each turn brought a new vista. There was no schedule, no billable minutes, no breakdown of the subway, no mobile phone. Only mountains, the river, the boat, and me. I enjoyed my last experience in Laos, but I didn't want my time there to end.
lunes, 5 de enero de 2009
Plain of Jars
The town of Phonsavan, Laos has nothing of interest for the traveler. It is cold and gray (bring layers). The buildings are all concentrated on the town's two roads and have the unappealing architecture of the 1960s Communist style. There are two restaurants in town. The ATM went in just a few months ago and the Internet cafe stays open only as long as there are customers, closing usually by 5:30 (and not 10 as noted on the sign).
Just outside of town, though, are the visit-worthy collection of archeological sites known as the Plain of Jars. The "jars" are stone vessels the size of a man. I stood inside The jars are made from stone quarried five miles away. It is believed that they were hollowed out and decorated using stone tools, since metal tools were not available at the time of creation. There are three sites near Phonsavan that each contain hundreds of jars. These sites are collectively known as the Plain of Jars. Only portions of the sites are open to visitors because areas proximate to the sites contain unexploded ordnances. The approved path is lined with white and red markers: the white side indicates that it is safe to walk; the red side indicates that the area has not yet been deemed clear of live explosives left by US forces during the Vietnam War. There are other sites with jars that are currently closed to visitors because they have not been cleared.
The jars date back some 3,000 years, but their purpose is unclear. One theory is that the residents used the vessels to store rice. This is ridiculous because nomadic populations wouldn't store rice in enormous quantities in inaccesible locations in jars that would require enormous efforts to create. A second theory is that the jars were used for funerary purposes. Given the importance of funerary practices in human cultures, this is a plausible theory. However, there has been no evidence of human remains found in the jars. A third theory is that there was another religious purpose for the jars, which is another plausible explanation.
The jars are located in seemingly random formations. But they are set in lovely landscapes. Also, they are display interesting designs. It is worth the 10-hour one-way bus ride to Phonsavan from either Luang Prabang or Vientiane.
Just outside of town, though, are the visit-worthy collection of archeological sites known as the Plain of Jars. The "jars" are stone vessels the size of a man. I stood inside The jars are made from stone quarried five miles away. It is believed that they were hollowed out and decorated using stone tools, since metal tools were not available at the time of creation. There are three sites near Phonsavan that each contain hundreds of jars. These sites are collectively known as the Plain of Jars. Only portions of the sites are open to visitors because areas proximate to the sites contain unexploded ordnances. The approved path is lined with white and red markers: the white side indicates that it is safe to walk; the red side indicates that the area has not yet been deemed clear of live explosives left by US forces during the Vietnam War. There are other sites with jars that are currently closed to visitors because they have not been cleared.
The jars date back some 3,000 years, but their purpose is unclear. One theory is that the residents used the vessels to store rice. This is ridiculous because nomadic populations wouldn't store rice in enormous quantities in inaccesible locations in jars that would require enormous efforts to create. A second theory is that the jars were used for funerary purposes. Given the importance of funerary practices in human cultures, this is a plausible theory. However, there has been no evidence of human remains found in the jars. A third theory is that there was another religious purpose for the jars, which is another plausible explanation.
The jars are located in seemingly random formations. But they are set in lovely landscapes. Also, they are display interesting designs. It is worth the 10-hour one-way bus ride to Phonsavan from either Luang Prabang or Vientiane.
sábado, 3 de enero de 2009
Languages spoken
On this trip I have spoken an impressive number of languages, sometimes out of necessity and sometimes out of courtesy, namely, the following:
Afrikaans
Bahasa Malaya
Breton
Corsican
English
Estonian
French
German
Italian
Ixil
Kakquichel
Khmer
Krio
Korean
Lao
Mam
Quiche
Spanish
Thai
Vietnamese
What language is next?
Afrikaans
Bahasa Malaya
Breton
Corsican
English
Estonian
French
German
Italian
Ixil
Kakquichel
Khmer
Krio
Korean
Lao
Mam
Quiche
Spanish
Thai
Vietnamese
What language is next?
viernes, 2 de enero de 2009
Siem Reap
The best thing I have seen so far in this set of travels is the Angkor grouping of temples. The Khmer rulers constructed these temples during the height of their power, approximately 1000 years ago. As Hindusim and Buddhism each enjoyed periods of dominance in the Khmer kingdom, some of the temples are dedicated to one religion, some to the other, and some contain imagery from both. The temples are particularly impressive because of they are largely intact and are mounumental in scale. There are dozens of major sites spread across approximately 60 kilometers.
Archaeologists have allowed the elements to take over certain sites. This practice is best known in the ruins featured in the movie Tomb Raider. The archaeologists made this conscious choice in order to show visitors the state of the temples when they were rediscovered in the last century. Silk trees are firmly rooted in the crumbling stone walls.
The best-known of the sites is Angkor Wat. It is the most visited site in Cambodia. You approach Angkor Wat by walking on a causeway over a moat. Beyond the outer entry temple are impressive gardens. Two reflecting pools in front of the inner area offer stunning views of the reflected towers at sunset and sunrise. At 5 am sunrise 500 Brits, Germans, Russians, and Japanese jockey for position in front of the left reflecting pool.
Beyond the pools, a set of stairs leads to the outer four sides of collonaded arcades with incredible relief sculptures from Hindu mytholody. It took me over an hour to make my way through the reliefs. The interior courtyard contains five temples, one at each of the four cardinal points, and one in the middle. This layout represents a complete realization of the geography of Hindu mythology. The stone towers resemble stylized beehives with incredibly detailed, ornate decoration.
My favorite temple was in Angkor Thom. It consisted of several dozen towers, the top of each which featured a six-foot tall human male head on each of the four sides. The heads are not immediately noticeable, but as I approached closer I saw them and became fascinated with them, spending nearly two hours exploring the site.
Along with the human heads I was particularly interested in the elephants, and soldiers in line on bridges before temples, found throughout multiple sites.
Archaeologists have allowed the elements to take over certain sites. This practice is best known in the ruins featured in the movie Tomb Raider. The archaeologists made this conscious choice in order to show visitors the state of the temples when they were rediscovered in the last century. Silk trees are firmly rooted in the crumbling stone walls.
The best-known of the sites is Angkor Wat. It is the most visited site in Cambodia. You approach Angkor Wat by walking on a causeway over a moat. Beyond the outer entry temple are impressive gardens. Two reflecting pools in front of the inner area offer stunning views of the reflected towers at sunset and sunrise. At 5 am sunrise 500 Brits, Germans, Russians, and Japanese jockey for position in front of the left reflecting pool.
Beyond the pools, a set of stairs leads to the outer four sides of collonaded arcades with incredible relief sculptures from Hindu mytholody. It took me over an hour to make my way through the reliefs. The interior courtyard contains five temples, one at each of the four cardinal points, and one in the middle. This layout represents a complete realization of the geography of Hindu mythology. The stone towers resemble stylized beehives with incredibly detailed, ornate decoration.
My favorite temple was in Angkor Thom. It consisted of several dozen towers, the top of each which featured a six-foot tall human male head on each of the four sides. The heads are not immediately noticeable, but as I approached closer I saw them and became fascinated with them, spending nearly two hours exploring the site.
Along with the human heads I was particularly interested in the elephants, and soldiers in line on bridges before temples, found throughout multiple sites.
River festival
Each year in mid-November, Cambodia celebrates a three-day river festival. This festival follows the independence day on November 8, which marks the independence of Cambodia from the French colonial government. The main celebration takes place in the capital Phnom Penh and Cambodians come from all over the country to celebrate. The city of 4 million welcomes 2 million visitors for the river festival. During the day teams of men compete in boat races down the Mekong. The longboats are filled with up to 80 men, in two rows, all dressed in identical single-colored uniforms. These men come from the same region or village and travel with family and neighbors who cheer them on during the river festival. With the power of 80 men rowing in unison the boats move quite quickly through the water.
Along the banks of the Mekong hawkers sell balloons, toys, and food. On the first day of the festival I saw a military truck pull up to a group of hawkers and grab the wares off the back of the tuk-tuks (motorbikes with a carriage bolted to the back). Those who were able to get their bikes started rode away without suffering too much loss, but others with engine troubles saw all of their wares go to the thirsty soldiers.
At night, the river plays host to a parade. 20-foot tall floats of light power up the river to the delight of the millions of spectators on both sides. In the background fireworks light up the sky. Elsewhere in the city there are concerts and other celebrations. The first night I watched a concert presented by the Christian humanitarian organization World Vision. It seemed like the performers were well-known Cambodian pop stars. Since my Khmer language skills are poor, I couldn't really tell you much about the concert.
Along the banks of the Mekong hawkers sell balloons, toys, and food. On the first day of the festival I saw a military truck pull up to a group of hawkers and grab the wares off the back of the tuk-tuks (motorbikes with a carriage bolted to the back). Those who were able to get their bikes started rode away without suffering too much loss, but others with engine troubles saw all of their wares go to the thirsty soldiers.
At night, the river plays host to a parade. 20-foot tall floats of light power up the river to the delight of the millions of spectators on both sides. In the background fireworks light up the sky. Elsewhere in the city there are concerts and other celebrations. The first night I watched a concert presented by the Christian humanitarian organization World Vision. It seemed like the performers were well-known Cambodian pop stars. Since my Khmer language skills are poor, I couldn't really tell you much about the concert.
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